In conversation with Lois Pryce

Lois Pryce loisontheloose.com is a British travel author, journalist and broadcaster. She is also co-founder of the Adventure Travel Film Festival. She has been named by The Telegraph as one of the 10 Great Female Travellers.

Lois has written for The Telegraph, Guardian, New York Times, CNN, The Independent and is a regular contributor to BBC 4’s From Our Own Correspondent. Her latest book, Revolutionary Ride, about her travels in Iran was shortlisted for the Edward Stanford Travel Writing Award.

Here Debbie talks to her about Iran, TED talks, ego, midlife and why she believes vulnerability is a key ingredient to successful travel.

Iran. Why?

The simple answer is 'because the idea scared me.' But it came about in a much more convoluted way. At the time of deteriorating relations between the UK and Iran a stranger left a note on my overland bike, while parked up in London. It was from an Iranian man who implored me to visit Iran, insisting that Iranians are not terrorists. I was intrigued and became increasingly interested in Iran and the current situation, and its long, troubled history with Britain. I decide to take up his challenge - because I realised I knew so little about Iran, Iranians and that my knowledge was only from the mainstream media present here in the UK - essentially all negative. I knew from the previous travels that the only way to find out the truth is to go and look for yourself. That idea scared me but that made it all the more important to do it, as I knew my fear was just a symptom of ignorance.

2. What was the no 1 thing your learnt about motorcycling around Iran as a woman on your own. Would it have been easier if you’d been a man?

In some ways it would be easier - men can generally move around the world more freely, with less examination. But on the other hand, being female meant I was not considered a threat, and also that I could mingle in most situations. As a man I would not have been able to mix so easily with women, so I was able to mix with pretty much everyone. As a solo female on a motorcycle you are a novelty, which is sometimes a pain as it attracts attention but often it works in your favour as people are keen to talk to you - and even look after you!

3. What’s the no 1 thing you learnt about being a woman in Iran?  

The image of Iranian women in the West is that they are cowering behind their husbands and fathers, oppressed by religion and a patriarchal regime. Well, the regime does not favour women, that is for sure, but Iranian women are far from meek or oppressed! They are some of the boldest, funniest, outgoing, educated and impressive women I have ever met anywhere in the world. The system is against them in many way but despite this, they are more likely to attend university than men, and there are many women in high ranking positions such as in medicine, politics and the judiciary.

3. What were the best experiences and what did you learn from them?

The best experiences were all surrounding the incredible hospitality of the Iranian people. I couldn't walk down the street without being invited into people's home for tea, or having fruit thrust into my hands. Even when I was riding people would drive alongside me trying pass me water and food! Iranians are the greatest conversationalists so it was a nonstop social event. They are very aware of how Iran is viewed in the West and very keen to set the record straight - just like the note on my bike said, they repeatedly implored 'We are NOT terrorists'. 

4. In your TED talk you talk about the importance of vulnerable travel?  Tell us more?

I think the best way to enjoy the world is to travel overland, move slowly, stop to talk and listen to people who you would otherwise never meet, be prepared to go with the flow - drop the itinerary, and the ego. This is the way to really connect.

5.  Explain more about dropping “the ego”?

When I was younger, it felt important to 'test myself' - see what level of risk and challenge I could take on. This was the motivation for my first adventures. There's nothing inherently wrong with that but after a while it seemed less and less important, and what interested me more was connecting with the world and people around me, and trying to see things through a different lens.

5.  You say that you were often terrified on your trips.  But you kept going.  What are your thoughts on courage in life generally.  Is it “God given” or is it something you’ve worked at overcoming?  How important do you think courage is in living life to the full. 

I think one's upbringing can have a huge effect on courage. I was brought up without fear - my parents never said 'don't do that, it's dangerous' or similar fearful warnings. Of course, I am fearful of certain things - it would be weird not to be! But the trick is not let the fear stop you having a go. As the old book title has it 'Feel the Fear and Do It Anyway'.

6.  You say that one thing you learnt through your adventures is that you wanted to be a writer.   What advice would you give to anybody else who wants to write about their adventures and do you think they first need to do something as “extreme” as you did?

 - If you can write well, you can write about anything, so no, it doesn't have to be 'extreme' although of course, from a commercial point of view, that may make it easier to 'sell' the idea to a publisher. But even the most extreme, exciting story won't make a good book if it's not written well. However, I do think that in this age, where there is an over-saturation of content due to social media etc, it does help to have some kind of unique element.

7.  Seems like you are driven by wanting adventures?    Is this true why do think that is and what’s  next for you?

It's true, I am always thinking about what I'd like to do next! I am currently focussing on more intellectual challenges and writing a novel and learning Persian. But I am a do-er and I like to be out there, being physically active. I fancy learning to sail...

8.  What are your thoughts on getting older as a travel/adventure writer - do you think you’ll tame things down?

Well, it's probably inevitable. I'm certainly more tired than I used to be. When I was younger I would sleep anywhere and just roll up my clothes for a pillow - that is less appealing at 47 but it's good to know I can do it if I have to! I am interested in so many things that I will always have a big to-do list, although it may include more vegetable growing in the future... :)

9.  Can you name any women who have/do inspire you?

I love the 1930s explorer and writer Freya Stark who explored much of the Middle East including Iran. She was up against a very male, traditional establishment of exploration in those days, and they didn't much care for her unscientific methods. But she didn't give a toss - she did what the hell she wanted to do and made great entertainment out it too, with her books.

10.  What are your thoughts/feelings on getting older

It's inevitable so it must be embraced rather than fought. I don't like having less energy but other than that, I'm cool with it. I'm gonna keep dying my hair though.

11.  You talk about the freedom of ditching possessions as you went on your first trip to Iran and even went down to three pairs of knickers!  But is there anything you really couldn’t live without

Books. The Kindle has been a great gift for travellers - I used to fill my panniers with books as I lived in fear of running out of reading material while on the road.

12.  What’s your favourite item of clothing? 

I've been recovering from coronavirus for the last 4 months, so at the moment it's my pyjamas!

12.  What advice would you give to the 18 year old Lois.  

Don't hide your light under a bushel.